Relearning WWII history in Germany and Denmark

Germany has been a favourite of ours, leading us to this country a number of times now. However, we are in Berlin for the first time and naturally it gets us to relearn the history of WWII. Brandenburg Tor is one of the few monuments that survived the war, though it has been restored to its magnificence.

Dec 23: A homage to those who were separated from their loved ones by the Berlin Wall. Remnants of the wall can be seen at the Berlin Wall Memorial on Bernauer Str. and the East Side Gallery, where it has been taken over by artists and their emotional renditions of the horrors, culture, and politics of the time.

The Christmas market that I was so looking forward to was a complete bust at Gendarmenmarkt - when did they start charging an entrance fee (the German Grinch must be incharge), Gluewine sucked, and the food options were essentially rock hard bread with garden variety Bratwurst. But we noticed that Christmas markets seem to be attracting Indian, English (yes they can cook pies!), kabobs, and others.

Dec 24: It's a walkabout starting at the Berlin Rathaus (town hall), that takes us through the museum island that includes the Berliner Dom (closed on Dec 24th...what?) and Humboldt University, Checkpoint Charlie, memorial to the murdered Jews of Europe, and the former site of Hitler's bunker. Pictures do no justice to the history of this city, but it deserves credit to fighting its way back to sanity and prosperity.

In the middle of Bebelplatz on 10, May 1993 the Nazi's burnt hundreds of books with glee. This underground empty library memorializes that ignorant act. The bronze plaque on the ground quotes Heinrich Heine:
That was but a prelude;
where they burn books,

they will ultimately burn people as well.

Checkpoint Charlie was the entrance to the American section of West Berlin...the big KFC sign says we still got it!

Germans driving in the old Lada's hoping that we never go back in time to those pieces of shit transports

The site of Hitler's bunker is now a parking lot and a children's park. Apparently, the bunker is still underground here but is in disrepair, partly flooded, and definitely not open to the public. It must be noted that Black Poplar tree, while ironic to mark the spot of the racist Hitler, has also suffered at the hands of tourists and residents over the years.

This is the memorial to the murdered Jews. The American flag is on the US embassy that is adjacent to the memorial.

In the afternoon we visit the East Side Galary to see the remaining wall.

Bears have been the symbol of Berlin since 1280, when they first appeared on the city flag. Bear statues are all over the town representing Buddy Baren.

Food in Germany has been consistently good...just lacking in fresh vegetables. Dinner on Christmas Eve is at Standige Vertretung, a Berlin pub that is a must-visit. They have a location in Berlin airport for those who can't make the downtown location.

Dec 25 - Merry Christmas

Ironically, on a holy day, we are going to go learn more about Nazi history in Berlin. We will walk from the Brandenburg Gate to the Reichstag, then the Soviet War Memorial, which is interestingly in the former West Berlin, and end at the Topography of Terror.

Christmas lunch is at Gate kabob while dinner is at another delightful neighborhood restaurant Boulevard Friedrichstrasse.

Bourne Supremacy was shot here at The Westin Grand Berlin.

Ampelmann is part museum of pedestrian traffic lights from all over the world, a souvenir store, and a coffee shop.

Dec 26 - Dresden

We are staying in Alstadt (old town) across the Dresden Zwinger and check out the Frauenkirche, the Furstenzug - an incredible 102 meter porcelain mural depicting all the rulers of Saxony, walked the Bruhl’s Terrace overlooking the river Elbe, and checked out a couple of museums. I particularly liked the vast collection of Canelleto in the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister at the Zwinger.

The Zwinger complex is extraordinary.

The OG of antisemtism (?)

Dinner is at a neighborhood Czech restaurant called Am Thor that is defintely worth visiting.

Dec 27 - Leipzig

A drive through really to one of the trade centers of the Middle Ages. As is the case in all of Europe, there is a cathedral, an old town blended with the new world, a Rathaus, and some delicious food; lunch at Auervachs Keller, another tasty visit.

The day of the beginning of the end of east Berlin and the reunification of Germany

The architect's reflection that work at the Rathaus above is as slow as a snail

Dec 28 - Quidlinberg

The castle! Also learnt the hardway that everything is closed on a Sunday...E V E R Y T H I N G including pharmacies. So if you plan on getting sick in Germany, dont do so on a Sunday.

Dec 29: Dusseldorf

Dec 30: Bonn

Dec 31: Cologne

This was a city destroyed during WWII but has been rebuilt on those ashes and has a distinct feel of having not forgotten

Eigelsteintorburg - one of several existing gates on the 12th-century city wall.

The Cologne Cathedral - I think it looks like the one in Strasbourg. The cathedral was one of the few structures that survived the bombings of WWII. Apparently, in the days of visual flying, the cathedral allowed pilots to know where to bomb. Thank God for providing direction!!!

The coffin of the 3 kings who visited Jesus when he was born

The most talking about restaurant in town is Peter Brauhaus that was closed, so we end up in a weird pub called Papa Joes and 2 hustling Bangladeshi waiters...food and drink excellent.

Jan 2: Hamburg welcomes us with a snow storm. The Germans dont believe in clearing the snow on the roads or the sidewalks, though they claim it is required by law. So trudging in snow, slush, and ice is the way it is.

Dinner is at The Lisbeth, a single-star Michelin restaurant about a mile from us. We were much impressed by the German efficiency of the operations in this restuarant - 1 chef, 1 sous chef, 2 waiters, and 1 dishwasher for about 40 patrons. The food was interesting with inspiration from northern Germany, but not quite magic in the mouth.

& the Chef Andre Stolle busy chef'ing

Jan 3: The snow is coming down heavily and the city has slowed as expected but looks beautiful.

Jan 4: Sonderborg, Denmak

The Sonderborg castle was built in the 1100's but has evolved over the last 1000 years to this structure.

The Danes like most of Europe resisted and embraced the Nazi's in equal measures...but we know who won.

This town is a summer delight given it is on the water.

On the way out of Denmark, the Germans pull us over at the border crossing. The 6 cops appear bored out of their minds as they each review my driver's license and our passports.

Jan 5: Lubeck

Despite suffering through their days in East Germany, this is a delightful little city with friendly people and interesting sights.

The 13th century townhall and square

Somebody met their long lost twin 😈

Jan 6: More Lubeck

Typical of many German cities where they remember the names of the Jewish people lost in WWII by these brass plaques on the pavement opposite their homes.